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Crossing the Island on Saddle Road
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If you are driving from one side of the island to the other, one option is to take Saddle Road through the heart of the island. On the west side of the island, Saddle Road begins at the junction of Hwy 190 and Hwy 200. Turn toward the mountain (mauka) onto Hwy 200 and begin your journey across the island. This area is called the “saddle” because of the saddle-shaped valley that lies between mountain giants, Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea. |
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| The road was originally built in 1942 for access to the military facilities located on the interior of the island. The road was narrow, rough and largely unbanked making travel treacherous at best. Even today, some rental car companies prohibit vehicles from using Saddle Road so be sure to check your rental agreement before you decide to cross the island on this road. Others have no problem since the road has largely been redone in recent years. The road is currently undergoing a massive realignment and resurfacing project so construction can also be a problem on Saddle Road. The portion from west of Hilo to the military base (22 miles of the total 48 miles of the road) has been totally redone and is quite nice now. Phase 2 will include a re-do of this roadway into Hilo. Much of the road on the western side of the island is still in poor shape. Negotiations with the military over the western alignment of Saddle Road to minimize impact on military lands are currently being conducted before the final phase of Saddle Road to the Mamalahoa Highway can be started. |
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| Although Saddle road is technically shorter than taking Hwy 19 north through Hilo, it is not necessarily faster. Saddle Road passes over a mountain crest of 6,578 feet at the highest point. This area, particularly the part from the saddle crest into Hilo, can be subject to rain or fog or even icy patches especially in winter. There are no services on the road so be sure you are fully gassed up before attempting to cross the island on Saddle Road. |
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| On the northern side of the island, you will pass 13,796 foot Mauna Kea or “White Mountain.” Take the turn off for the Observatory. During your drive, stop off at the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy located at the 9,000 foot level. Here you can learn more about the work of the Mauna Kea Observatory and see films on space and astronomy. From here, get back on the road and head to the summit. This is a 30 minute drive on mostly unpaved roads to the summit where you will find some of the finest telescopes in the world. During the winter months temperatures are likely to be very cold and there is often snow or intense biting winds at this level so be prepared before you attempt this trip. The air is thin so people with breathing problems may not want to wander about at this altitude. Guided tours at the summit are also available for those who are interested in this. Visitors can go inside the University of Hawaii and Keck visitor’s centers on weekdays. The view from the top is definitely reminiscent of a “moonscape” so be prepared. |
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At the top, you can also see Lake Wai-au, one of the highest lakes in the United States located at an altitude of 13,020 feet. This ancient permafrost lake is a remnant of the last Ice Age when a large glacier covered the top of Mauna Kea. You can also take the dirt road, called Mana Road about 2 miles onto Mauna Kea road. This road is a 44 mile drive around Mauna Kea which leads to Waimea. This drive should only be tried with a 4 wheel drive vehicle or mountain bike.
Off Saddle Road a quarter mile east of the road to Mauna Kea is a narrow paved road which leads to the Mauna Loa Weather Observatory. Not the most exciting trip, but interesting views of Mauna Kea and the valleys none-the-less if you have plenty of time on your hands.
As you continue eastward on Saddle Road toward Hilo, the scenery will become more tropical. As you arrive into town, turn left onto Kaumana Drive. At mile marker 4, you will arrive at Kaumana Cave on the left as you approach Hilo. When you arrive at the intersection of Kaumana Drive and Waianuenue Avenue, a left turn will take you to the areas of Rainbow Falls, Boiling Pots, Pe’epe’e Falls, and Waiale Falls. Definitely not to be missed tropical areas. |
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